I was enjoying the first bites of a fresh salad at a quaint open-air café on Thursday, when I was drawn away from my plate of greens by the sound of traditional Balinese music ringing through the air. I looked around in time to spot a line of women, donned in red tops and black sarongs with baskets delicately balanced atop their heads, emerge from a nearby side-street. Following closely behind was a group of men clad in black, all banging away on gender wayang, an ancient Bali melodic instrument very similar to the xylophone. I first assumed I was witnessing a parade or celebration of sorts, as the group carried on gaily, full of chatter and smiles. However, when the final group of men rounded the corner and I saw a casket draped in white cloth supported between them, I understood the true purpose of this procession. The whole scene was similar to a New Orleans style funeral, when trumpets blare and many attendees break out in dance – an open celebration for the life of the deceased. I can only hope that my death will not be a reason for mourning, but instead an occasion for my loved ones to gather in the sharing of stories, laughter and some funky tunes.


After work the next day, Lisa and I embarked on what became my favorite day-trip in Bali thus far. We drove south for an hour to Ulu Watu, located on the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula, and headed for the Pura Luhur Ulu Watu temple. I had read in my Lonely Planet book that monkeys inhabit the temple, so I assumed there would be a few monkeys scattered sparingly throughout the trees, but was I wrong. The whole temple was teaming with the mischievous furballs, happily jumping from tree to tree and chasing each other among ancient temple spires. At one point I spotted a monkey sitting high in a tree, flaunting a pair of stolen eyeglasses as he looked down, seemingly amused, at his bewildered victim. A wrinkled local man, who obviously knew the ways of these thieving monkeys, calmly approached the distressed glasses-less woman below and tossed a bag of peanuts towards the treetops. The monkey responded by making an MLB-worthy snatch with his feet, scratched himself while examining the offering, then decided it was a fair trade and tossed the stolen eyewear down to the man. It was an amusing display of negotiations between man and monkey!

We made our way to a cliffside vantage point as the sun began creeping towards to ocean, all the while surrounded by our new monkey friends. From our spot perched on the edge of a massive cliff we witnessed the most dramatic sunset of the trip so far. The dark faces of the cliffs were illuminated in bright colors, seemingly painted by the sky itself. Just when the sunset was climaxing in an orgy of reds, purples, pinks and oranges, the monkeys around us started humping with such ferocity, that I’m sure the temple gods stirred in the heavens. After I peeled my eyes away from the display of unbridled sexual vigor unfolding all around me, I witnessed a beautiful sight of the glowing horizon fading into the darkness of night. If I go anywhere to watch another sunset while in Bali, it will be to the temple of Ulu Watu.
Back at the Asian Beach Games’ headquarters, activity is beginning to pick up with the return of staff from Eid ul-Fitr and the arrival of members who have been working from Jakarta. Each day I spot a new sign or banner advertising the Games around town, even our office space is now wholly adorned with the look of the games. Tomorrow, supplies arrive and the construction of the MPC begins; we will soon learn how many of our requests BABGOC was able to fulfill. Things are about to get fun!
From Bali with love,
Ben Z Samples







3 comments
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October 5, 2008 at 11:50 am
Ted (Dad)
Ben – I just returned from DC, with my Japanese visitors. Sushi, golf and steaks are today’s venue. Looks like Bali is truly the paradise that it’s advertised. You might need to brace for the cooler weather and the real world when you return to Colorado. All of us have enjoyed the literary ride through the island and the great photos. Keep up the good work – and I hope your preparations for the Games are going as well as the sightseeing!
Love,
/Dad
October 6, 2008 at 1:48 am
Daniel
There are some great pictures here! Also, Ben, you are a great writer. I enjoy reading what you are thinking…
October 6, 2008 at 5:31 am
Tim
Sounds a bit more glamorous than Puerto Iguazú: dusty streets versus ancient temple, violent street dog orgies versus amorous monkeys … either way, I guess. Enjoying the pictures and descriptions. Good luck with your project.